1 AIT Asian Institute of Technology

A numerical model of nearshore currents induced by wave over barred beach

AuthorTran Phuong Dung
Call NumberAIT Thesis no.WA-94-15
Subject(s)Waves--Mathematical models
NoteA thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Engineering, School of Civil Engineering
PublisherAsian Institute of Technology
AbstractIn the present study, a numerical model of nearshore currents induced by wave was studied and verified with the result of an experiment for the barred beach. A numerical model is divided into two parts. First part is to compute the wave field by using the elaborated model such as the time-dependent mild slope equation . Second part is the 2 dimensions depth-average currents model for nearshore currents induced by regular breaking wave. The general two-dimensional basic equations combining effects due to refraction, diffraction, shoaling and wave breaking are introduced in form of the first order equations. The linear wave theory is applied in the present study. A series of measurement was carried out in the Hydraulic Laboratory, with experimental setup built on basic of longshore current measurement in the rectangular closed wave basin with a longshore bar . Wave height and velocities of 2 directions in a 2 -D coordinate system were recorded at more than 152 points by using a wave gauge and an electromagnetic current meter through a converting computer program. The model was modified to simulate wave deformation and current field with the same wave condition for an experimental area with the same longshore bar . By the equation of eddy viscosity which was proposed for plane beach, computational eddy viscosity h ad discontinuity distribution around the bar crest for barred beach. One improved equation for eddy viscosity was proposed without its discontinuity and was used in computation of nearshore current . Four runs with four different cases of dissipation factor were computed . Computational results were not much significant different between these four runs . Sensitivity analysis of friction coefficient and constant for mixing formulae was carried out roughly. Through comparison between experimental and computed results of both wave h eight and velocities at many sections of many pair of values of friction coefficient and constant for mixing formulae , the most appropriate values of those parameters were found very low due to high velocity result in experiment . The obtained results draw the conclusion that the model can be applied to accurately simulate the transformation of monochromatic linear waves as they propagate over a barred beach configurations .
Year1994
TypeThesis
SchoolSchool of Civil Engineering
DepartmentOther Field of Studies (No Department)
Academic Program/FoSWater Resources Research Engineering (WA)
Chairperson(s)Sutat Weesakul
Examination Committee(s)Suphat Vongvisessomjai ;Imamura, Fumihiko ;Tran Thuc
Scholarship Donor(s)Denmark.
DegreeThesis (M.Eng.) - Asian Institute of Technology, 1994


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