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Wave deformation in the surf zone | |
Author | Theerachai Thanupaprangsan |
Call Number | AIT Thesis no. WA-88-18 |
Subject(s) | Waves |
Note | A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirement for the degree of Master of Engineering, School of Engineering and Technology |
Publisher | Asian Institute of Technology |
Abstract | Distributions of wave height and wave set-up on the nonuniform bed configurations, namely, the step type and bar type in the surf zone are investigated both in a numerical mode ling and an experiment. Theoretical considerations are bas e d on the linearized breaking wave method . The general two-dimensional basic equations combining effects due to refraction, diffraction, shoaling and wave breaking are introduced in form of the first order equations. A numerical model for prediction of wave height and wave set-up distributions in the surf zone is proposed by using the finite difference method . Results from the experiments are presented in terms of distributions of wave height and wave set-up along the beach profiles. The characteristics of wave are unique for each type of the beach model. The distributions of wave heights show rather good results for every test runs whil e that of the wave set-up show highly variation of the observed data. This may be due to the effect of voltage drop from the wave gauge . However, trends of the major group of all the data are quite reasonable. With the modification of the experimental results on the the offshore boundary condition for wave set-up , the results are much better. Comparison be tween the predicted and experimental values for the wave height distributions s how s rather good prediction al though there are some under estimated values around the breaking point due to the nonlinearity of the real wave in the surf zone . For the distributions of wave set-up, using only the trends of the major groups of the experimental results in the comparative plots with the predicted values, a reasonably good prediction was found. |
Year | 1988 |
Type | Thesis |
School | School of Engineering and Technology (SET) |
Department | Other Field of Studies (No Department) |
Academic Program/FoS | Water Resources Research Engineering (WA) |
Chairperson(s) | Preecha Karnronrithisorn |
Examination Committee(s) | Suphat Vongvisessornjai ;Prida Thimakorn |
Scholarship Donor(s) | People 's Republic of Korea |
Degree | Thesis (M.Eng.) - Asian Institute of Technology, 1988 |